Wotofo Profile RDTA
The Wotofo Profile RDTA is the latest installment in the Profile series, following on from the Profile RDA, Profile 1.5 RDA and the Profile Unity RTA. A further collaboration between Wotofo and Mrjustright1, the Profile RDTA allows you to build with single mesh, dual coils or single coils and can also be used as an RDA for squonking or dripping. It also introduces a Clapton mesh strip to rebuildables, which was first seen in the Intake Sub Ohm tank coils. So, it looks like a very versatile tank, but does it deliver?
Disclaimer: I was sent the Profile RDTA for review by Wotofo.
- Profile RDTA x1
- nexMESH Clapton Ni80+A1 0.20 ohms x1
- nexMESH Extreme A1 0.16 ohms x1
- nexMESH Turbo A1 0.13 ohms x1
- Framed Staple Clapton Ni80 0.33 ohms x2
- 6mm Thick Cotton Strip x2
- 3mm Thick Cotton Strip x2
- Stainless Steel Wick x6 (4 pre-installed + 2 spares)
- Mesh Bending Tool x1
- RDA Adapter x1
- Cross Head Screwdriver x1
- Allen Key x1
- Accessory Bag x1
- User Manual x1
- Diameter: 25mm
- Height: 52.7mm
- Build Deck Diameter: 22.5mm
- E-Liquid Capacity: 6.2ml
- Coil Types: Single Mesh Coil, Single Wire Coil, Dual wire coils
- Drip Tip: Removable Coloured Resin / 810
- Filling Method: Mid filling for RDTA / BF squonkable for RDA
- Airflow: Adjustable Side Honeycomb Airflow
- Connection: 510
Design & Build Quality
The Profile RDTA has an 810 coloured resin drip tip on top. It has a metal ring around the bottom of the drip tip which matches the colour of the rest of the RDTA. The drip tip is nice and comfortable to use.
The top cap doubles as your airflow control. Turning the top cap allows you to close off the airflow to your desired preference. The top cap is press fit and held in by an o-ring.
When you first take the Profile RDTA out of the packaging the o-rings are very tight, but once it is being used they ease up with lubrication from liquid. Although a pain initially, they have a perfect restrictiveness in use. I’d rather them be too tight when dry and perfect in use, instead of just right when dry and falling off when lubricated.
The airflow cap features the Profile logo on one side and the honeycomb airflow holes on either side. There are 19 holes on each side. The airflow cap is press fit, secured with two o-rings on the build deck base. Same thing as top cap; tight when dry, perfect in use.
The airflow cap has two little tabs on the inside which lock the airflow cap in place once it is fitted to the build deck. This ensures it does not rotate when adjusting your airflow and also ensures the airflow holes remain directed at your coils. They also cover the fill hole and air hole on the build deck.
The build deck has two clamps to allow mesh strips to be installed. The clamps are tightened with a single Phillips head screw on each clamp. The clamps are not spring loaded. There is also a ceramic plate, which is spring loaded, that lies between the clamps. This ceramic plate will push up against your cotton to ensure it is held against the mesh coil.
In the center of the ceramic plate you can see the top of the 510 connection pin, which is squonk ready. If you use the Profile RDTA in RDA mode you can put it on top of a squonk mod without having to switch out the 510 connection pin.
The two slots in the ceramic plate reveal the dedicated postless deck. You can install either a single or dual coil wire build using the postless deck. The coil legs are secured into the postless deck with two further Phillips screws on each side of the mesh clamps.
The inclusion of the postless deck along with the mesh clamps gives the Profile RDTA great versatility and Wotofo and Mrjustright1 have managed this while keeping the build deck nice and tidy.
There are two holes in each of the juice wells on the build deck. These are where the stainless steel rods sit, hanging down into the juice tank.
At the side of each of the mesh clamps is a hole. The larger hole is your juice fill port and the smaller one is a pressure relief vent to allow air to escape while filling the tank with liquid.
The tank frame has a removable glass tube on my review unit, which Wotofo has advised will be PCTG in the retail version. The tank frame has cutouts all the way around which allow you to see your liquid level and also double up as a knurling for unscrewing the tank. They also protect the glass tube to some extent.
The stainless steel rods hang into the tank and wick liquid from the tank to the build deck via capillary action, feeding liquid to your cotton wicks.
I love the overall design of the Profile RDTA. From the outside you are essentially looking at a Profile RDA sitting on top of the tank section. But the inside reveals a build deck that allows you to use mesh, single and dual coils.
Converting the Profile RDTA to an RDA is as simple as unscrewing the tank and screwing on the included base plate, which then covers up the four wicking holes for the steel rods. Your Profile RDTA is then squonk ready, or you can swap out the squonk pin and use it as a dripper.
On my images of the build deck, you may see machining marks which Wotofo has advised will not be present on retail versions of the Profile RDTA.
The build quality on the Profile RDTA is spot on. The machining of the threads is nice and smooth. As mentioned above, the tight when dry o-rings are the perfect resistance once the Profile RDTA is in use and the o-rings have been lubricated.
The airflow on the Profile RDTA is controlled by twisting the top cap. The top cap features a stepped design which allows you to close off firstly the top row of air holes, then the second and third rows simultaneously.
The airflow cap is locked in place, so will always be directed at your coils. I personally prefer a slightly restricted draw and found closing off the top row of air holes gave me a perfect airflow.
Fully open the airflow gives a pretty much resistance free draw. If you like a very restrictive DTL draw you can close down the airflow completely, or you can adjust to anywhere in between.
Airflow on the Profile RDTA is smooth, not turbulent at all and no whistles are present. The adjustment of the top is really smooth and allows you to close down the airflow one hole at a time to really dial in on your preferred draw.
Building on the Profile RDTA
As mentioned above you have the choice of building with either mesh, dual or single coils.
I had to try out the Clapton mesh strip first, to see how it performed.
Wotofo did advise me that the Clapton mesh strips provided have been dry burned already to check for hotspots and quality.
To install mesh strips onto the build deck you first untighten the Phillips screw on each clamp. The clamp is not spring loaded; you may have to knock it open once you have untightened the screw. You can do this with the tip of your screwdriver.
Next you take your mesh strip and place it on your included coil bending tool. Gently bend the mesh strip around the tool and it will take on a half moon shape. You then place the ends of the mesh strip into the clamps and screw them down.
You will then dry fire your mesh strip, which only needs to be done around 10W.
To install your cotton you can use the included shoelace cotton or your own cotton if you prefer. The thicker cotton included is for mesh builds, the thinner cotton is for wire builds.
Feed your cotton under the mesh strip pressing down gently on the ceramic plate to feed it through. The Clapton mesh is very delicate, so take care not to snag the wires when doing this.
The cotton is then cut to length on either side. I am not an experienced mesh builder and there are many methods for cutting cotton for mesh builds, so I’m not going to tell anyone how to do this as there are others who will be able to advise much better than me.
If you are going to be using the Profile as an RDTA I would recommend putting the build deck onto the tank at this point and putting your stainless steel rods in place as it’s easier to do from the top than the bottom of the deck and you need to do it before you place your cotton in the juice wells.
Once the cotton has been cut to length the ends are tucked into the juice wells, so they rest on the wicking ports of the stainless steel rods.
Your cotton then needs to be saturated and the tank filled with liquid.
The top cap can then be replaced and you are ready to go.
I won’t talk through installing a single or dual coil build as a Youtube video can demonstrate this better than I can with words alone.
I first want to talk about the flavor on the Profile RDTA. Using the Clapton mesh I settled on 65W and the flavor is phenomenal. This is the best flavor I have experienced while vaping anything. Now, I have to say that I struggle with RDA builds in general because they are too hot for me at the wattage where the flavor really comes through.
So, I’m not saying this is the best flavor ever and everyone needs to run out and experience this. What I suspect is that I am finally able to experience the type of flavor that others do from rebuildables, because at 65W this is a perfect temperature for me.
On the flip side I suppose others that enjoy vaping at higher wattages may find the temperature to be too cool to them.
I used the nexMESH Turbo next and flavor is good, but compared to the Clapton mesh, no competition.
I did put a dual coil build in using the provided Framed Staple Claptons and ran into the problem that I always have with RDAs in general. It’s just too hot for me at the point where the flavor starts to pop. This is my issue and nothing to do with the Profile RDTA or any other rebuildable.
Now, the stainless steel wicking rods. I just can’t get them to work for me. I have tried every method that I could find for wicking and I couldn’t get the rods to keep up. No matter what I tried I always ran into semi dry hits. I had a few full blown dry hits and it was not pleasant.
I’m willing to accept this is down to my wicking, as others seem to have no issues with it.
Disheartened, I took the tank off and used it in squonk mode for a while where it performed perfectly. I then tried again with a different wicking method, but I ran into the same issues. In the end I just started turning it upside down to wet the wicks, which actually worked fine. The cotton soaks up the liquid and I didn’t end up with liquid running out of the air holes or drip tip.
I did experience leaking when I accidentally left my mod on its side when a parcel arrived at my door. It’s what I would have expected; the mess was horrendous, so I won’t be doing that again on purpose.
The only other issue I ran into was the size of the fill port. It’s fine for needle tipped nozzles, but unfortunately I have a big nozzle on a 250ml bottle of liquid. I had to transfer liquid into the tank using a syringe that I use for mixing. Again, this is my issue for not using standard bottles, but thought i’d mention it for anyone else that uses bigger bottles and nozzles.
Overall, I’ve loved using the Profile RDTA. I found the flavor from the Clapton mesh to be the best I’ve ever experienced. I’m going to have to get some Clapton mesh strips for use in other mesh rebuildables in the future because it blows standard mesh out of the water. I just can’t use another mesh rebuildable without the Clapton mesh, because the flavor won’t be comparable.
It hasn’t been without its frustrations due to the wicking from the stainless steel rods, which I am willing to accept may be down to my wicking. I can’t say they don’t work, but I haven’t managed to make them work for me.
Thank you for reading and thank you to Wotofo for sending me the Profile RDTA for review.
I fought with the wicking also until I cut the cotton to length (just long enough to touch the bottom) then cut them diagonally about half the width at the tips. It wicks like a champ now!
I can’t get mine to wick correctly either , it’s awful . Very very disappointed because this is an expensive tank.